Maximus
June 9-23rd 2002 Part Two
Marple Junction - Whaley bridge - Wheaton Aston
Part one covered our trip to Leek and Marple
Junction.
Sunday 16th June Marple Junction to Whaley bridge and back to Four Lane
End (Br 18)
17 miles, 0 locks 7 1/2 hrs
The
Peak Forest canal passes through some stunning scenery as it winds its
shallow way along the side of a hill. The weather improved and we trundled
along in bright sunshine, I even considered taking my fleecy off. There
is a lift bridge right on a blind bend that should be approached with
caution. We ran aground once, some feet from the bank, and it took quite
a bit of poling to get us off. It took 3 hours to do the 6 1/2 miles.
The last mile or so of the canal is pretty much solid with linear moorings
so progress was slow. When we finally got to our destination we were very
pleased to get the first mooring by the basin.
Whaley
Bridge is a quiet little town that seems to consist of several pubs and
a few shops. We were surprised to find a large well stocked bike shop.
There seemed to be some sort of cycling event going on as there were hordes
of cyclists passing through. Chris and Kate bought some supplies at the
Co-op while Tim & I looked at the bikes. We had a rather uninspiring lunch
at a little tea room, and stopped at a outdoor equipment store where Chris
bought yet another rucksack. After that there seemed to be no real reason
to stay so we headed back to the boat, filled the water tank at the sanitary
station and set off back the way we had come. The return trip seemed to
take much less time than outward but it was an illusion. The scenery was
just as spectacular and I had more time to appreciate it as I had a respite
from the tiller when Chris took over for a while
Chris handled the turn at Marple junction with her usual aplomb while
I took pictures of the lock flight and the junction bridge. There was
quite a bit of traffic coming up the flight assisted by a BW lock keeper.
As the afternoon wore on the weather deteriorated and it got rather cold
and windy with a few showers, so the fleecy went back on and I redeployed
the tonneau.
Our goal was the Miners Arms at Four lane End by Bridge 18 which has a
good write up in our Nicholson's guide but when we got there it was packed,
hot and uncomfortable. We had to wait over an hour for a rather ordinary
pub meal served by staff that obviously couldn't care less. This place
is not on my return list. I think being fathers day didn't help.
Monday 17th June Four Lane End (Br 18) to Br 85
18 1/2 miles, 12 locks, 7 1/2 hrs.
After
our usual 8 ish start we made good time into Macclesfield where we made
a brief stop at the boatyard for Tim to make some arrangements for his
car.
I don't usually moan about people passing moored boats a bit quick but
there are limits. We were moored having lunch in a group of 3 boats by
Br 52 when we heard the blatt of an engine and the whoosh of white water.
I looked up to see an Anderson hire boat bearing down on us at high speed
with a huge breaking wash from bow and stern. By the time I had leapt
to the door they we past. My imprecations were drowned in the roar of
the exhaust, all we could do was hang on as the wake hit.
Our second run through the Bosley flight took almost 2 hrs even though
we had a larger crew. The wind was blowing the top gates about and they
just wouldn't stay put. We ended up cracking the bottom paddles to try
and hold them closed. NOT my favourite flight, life would be so much easier
with conventional top gates. We stopped for tea just south of Br 72 near
the Congleton aqueduct but decided to move on when the weather settled
down for the evening. That's when we met Phil Rushton near his boat Why
Worry so we stopped for a chat. We moored just south of Br 85 for the
night as dusk fell. Next morning we discovered there were better moorings
a short distance further south near Br 86.
Tuesday 18th Br 85 to Wheelock
9 1/2 miles, 27 locks 7 1/2 hrs
What
a day! Down heartbreak hill in one fell swoop half of it with just the
two of us. It stayed dry but the strong and gusty wind made boat handling
hard work with so many locks. We had a gentle start with just the stop
lock at Hall Green then the real work started. Many of the twinned locks
(left) were closed or missing which made things tricky in the wind especially
when there wasn't a usable landing near the locks. Never the less, progress
down the Red bull flight was pretty rapid until we caught up a guy single
handing. I respect folks who want to do that but this chap refused all
help and did things in his own good time. Then we met another solo boater
coming up. He had parked his (very short) boat in the V of the lower gates
and was busy with something aboard. I arrived from the other direction
on foot and took a quick look over the gates and failed to see him. He
was most put out when I filled the lock right in front of him. But he
accepted both my apologies and assistance so I think he gained on the
deal.
We got to the Broughton Arms at lunchtime where we had a nice meal sat
outside in the garden watching a psychotic swan attacking its own reflection
on a boat. After lunch Tim & Kate got a taxi back to their car in Macclesfield
and we were on our own for the rest of the trip. Just after we set off
we passed Ivor Batchelor on Mountbatten towing a butty with some new lock
gates. We exchanged pleasantries as we passed and I noticed he was adverting
diesel at 28 p/ litre but reckoned that wasn't the time to fill up. We
also passed 3 men in a wooden rowing skiff looking like they were making
a film version of 3 men in a boat. By the time we reached Wheelock we
were pretty tired so we pulled in at the first available mooring. We decided
to go to the chippy that evening. The portions were generous but once
we got back to the boat we realised that we had all the bits out of the
chip pan there was hardly a whole chip in either portion, even the ducks
refused them.
Wednesday 19th Wheelock to Venetian lock
14 miles, 9 locks, 7 hrs
We
needed water but found a hire boat from Alvechurch moored right at the
water point so we breasted up and ran the hose over their stern. While
that was going on we got chatting to the occupants. After that we had
a good run into Middlewich only interrupted by picking up a bladefull
of red plastic. Someone in a passing boat yelled "Captain Beeky told us
to say Hi". There weren't many mooring places to be had in Middlewich
I guess people were still hanging about after the festival so we pressed
on.
Once again Chris did the junction turn while I took photos and did the
locks. We ascended the Wardle lock without comment from the lady in the
lockside cottage so I presume we got it right. We phoned Venetian marina
to see what time they closed and were told 6 pm. Thinking we had plenty
of time we stopped for a leisurely lunch and arrived just after 5 to find
everything but the gift shop closed. The canals had been quiet all the
way so we were surprised to find a queue of 4 boats waiting to come down
the lock and one going our way. This was by far the most traffic we saw
all trip.
Thursday 20th Venetian lock to Audlem top lock
12 1/2 miles, 17 locks, 6 1/4 hrs
The plan had been to stop at the bottom of the Audlem flight but things
didn't work out that way. After a late start (8:20) we headed for the
Nantwich canal centre to get a pumpout and look at 2nd hand boats. While
we were passing through the moorings at Barbridge it became apparent that
the helmsman of an oncoming boat wasn't awake. A quick toot resulted in
a very startled head appearing and control was restored. The pumpout (£10)
and diesel (30p/ltr) at Nantwich are situated right at the end of the
arm. Whilst we were there we noted that there is now a laundrette on site.
We found that there were no second hand boats of interest there but the
guy at the brokerage was most helpful and informative. Rather than turn
in the crowded basin and make another turn at the exit I decided to back
out, which was accomplished without fuss.
When we got to Audlem Chris went ahead to see if there were any moorings
by the Shroppie Fly. When she phoned me with the all clear I made a start
up the flight solo. I was looking forward to doing my first lock single
handed and had worked out a plan. But as I entered the lock a kindly gent
offered assistance which I gladly accepted. As I was driving out of the
lock Chris arrived, followed shortly afterwards by my parents Joyce and
Brian who had come to join us for the evening. With their help we made
rapid progress to between locks 4 & 5, where we moored while Chris and
the others went for some retail therapy at the gift shop.
I
stayed aboard to prepare dinner and was soon joined a very aggressive
swan who was determined to be fed. He didn't want to take no for an answer
and ended up with his head through the galley window trying to grab the
carrot I was peeling. Now swans swimming about outside is very atmospheric
but I'm less impressed when they try and come in through the window. But
it made for an excellent photo opportunity.
The trouble with mooring in lock flight is that the water level changes.
There is an underwater ledge most of the way along the Shroppie and we
were half on that so every time someone went down the lock behind us the
boat did a fair impression of the Conservative party (with a violent lurch
to the right). After dinner, knowing rain was expected the next day, we
decided to move up to the top of the flight and perhaps get a stable mooring.
We started off with help from Joyce and Brian but finished off the last
6 or so by ourselves, arriving at the top as dusk fell.
Friday 21st Audlem top lock to Goldstone Wharf.
8 Miles, 10 locks, 4 hr 20 mins
We woke to the sound of rain so we were in no hurry to get up, we were
well ahead of schedule so we decided to take it easy. Once we did get
going we noticed that the oncoming boats had their English flags furled,
there was no need to ask why [for overseas readers, this was after the
World Cup soccer game England vs Brazil]. We stopped at Market Drayton
to have a look round, bought some goodies from the bakers and then stopped
off at Woodies Canalside Emporium & tea rooms by bridge 62. Quite a nice
place with a model train trundling round the room up on a shelf. We also
had a look round a second hand boat but it didn't take our fancy. On the
Shebdon embankment I saw an oncoming boat in the distance, first the port
side, then starboard as it zig-zagged all over the cut. I throttled back
and tried to judge it so that we would pass when he was in the trees on
the other bank. The boat was from Countrywide Cruisers at Brewood so he
should have had a few hours experience. As they passed some one on board
yelled "you can tell he's learning". I replied "It would be easier if
you slowed down" but I don't think he heard over the roar of the full
throttle exhaust.
As tea time drew nigh we approached Goldstone wharf and were amazed to
find it packed out with boats. On enquiring the reason we were told that
there was a vintage engine rally taking place. Suddenly acutely aware
of the Shire engine purring softly under my feet I proceeded past the
moored assembly making "Kerdoink" noises. As often happens on the Shroppie
the ledge prevented us getting the stern within 6' of the bank but as
the next boats were breasted up we didn't feel too exposed. This was the
first time we have had to use the gang plank on Max. We had a quiet night
in as we didn't fancy getting back aboard on the gangplank after the pub.
Saturday 22nd Goldstone Wharf to Wheaton Aston
15 miles 0 locks 5 1/2 hrs
After making the long trek ashore Chris cast us off and decided to reboard
at the nearby bridge. We had a pleasant and uneventful run to Gnosall
which we reached at lunchtime. As we left the town oncoming boaters told
us that we were heading for a big fishing match spread over a couple miles.
And so it was - an interminable line of hunched figures. One or two were
civil, especially the guy who caught one just by our bows. It did make
for slow progress though. We reached Wheaton Aston just after 3 and were
amazed to find Turners shut (apparently he had something special to do)
We proceeded to the winding hole where I made a complete mess of the
turn, going too late and misjudging the wind. Once I realised it wasn't
going to work I reversed to have another go. This meant we drifted quite
close to the boats moored opposite the winding hole. As we crept backwards
ready to hand off the moored boats a couple on one started to go on "mind
our paint, we only just had it done" etc. I though a far better way of
protecting their precious paint was to refrain from mooring in winding
holes and to assist rather than whinge. Anyway on the second attempt I
managed to get round without drama and back the boat to the water point
where we filled up and washed the boat down. Once that was done we had
to back the boat past an abandoned Tupperware cruiser that looked like
it had been there for months. Then we set to in the usual last night cleanup
and pack before nipping over to the Hartley Arms for a meal. The place
was very busy but still served us a very nice meal promptly - quite a
contrast to the pubs we endured further north.
Sunday 24th Wheaton Aston
We had a lazy get up and did the final packing and cleaning , then moved
up to the DIY pumpout which went very smoothly. The main excitement of
the day was provided by a dog that attempted and failed to jump on a boat
passing through the bridge. It ended up in the water between the boat
and bridge, somehow it escaped unscathed and promptly did it again.
Our friends and co-owners Arthur and Christine arrived to take over
from us just before lunch. Once the the car-and-luggage shuffle was accomplished
pulled up to Turners to fill with diesel (20.5 p/ltr). Then we all settled
down to an excellent lunch prepared by Christine. It was very pleasant
chatting with folks in the warm sunshine much more civilised then the
usual mad dash at the boatyard. But all too soon we reluctantly got in
the car and headed home.
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